The Hill of Crosses: A Monument to the Defiant Spirit of Lithuania

The Hill of Crosses: A Monument to the Defiant Spirit of Lithuania

“Thank you, Lithuanians, for this hill of crosses which testifies to the nations of Europe, and to the whole world, the faith of the people of this land.”Continue Reading →

A Ticket to the Past: Taking the First Train to Jūrmala

A Ticket to the Past: Taking the First Train to Jūrmala

Jūrmala is without any doubt one of the most popular tourist destinations in Latvia, and the top one outside Riga.Continue Reading →

Riga Off The Beaten Track: Ķengarags and Mazjumpravmuiža

Riga Off The Beaten Track: Ķengarags and Mazjumpravmuiža

Very few, if any, visitors to Riga venture out as far as the Ķengarags neighbourhood, one of the city’s southern suburbs.Continue Reading →

Frontiers of Peace: Photographing the Baltics’ Schengen Borders

Frontiers of Peace: Photographing the Baltics’ Schengen Borders

"This trip convinced me to continue the borderline project; it is important to protect freedom of movement in Europe."Continue Reading →

Viljandi: A Jewel of a Town in Deepest Estonia

Viljandi: A Jewel of a Town in Deepest Estonia

Viljandi would be my choice for the most attractive country town in Estonia, a nation that rather specialises in attractive country townsContinue Reading →

A Ghost Town Deep in the Baltic Forests: Exploring Skrunda-1

A Ghost Town Deep in the Baltic Forests: Exploring Skrunda-1

It was late morning, somewhere on a long straight road in western Latvia, when the satnav finally announced our arrival.Continue Reading →

A Ghost Town Unsuitable for Humans: Patarei Sea Fortress

A Ghost Town Unsuitable for Humans: Patarei Sea Fortress

“When I walk through the place, memories of other people keep popping up; it is a geography of grief."Continue Reading →

Dissidence in Our Blood: Survival in a 1984 Soviet Bunker

Dissidence in Our Blood: Survival in a 1984 Soviet Bunker

“You, obviously, have got to play the dissident. You Lithuanian-Americans were all dissidents to the Soviets.”Continue Reading →

The Project to Restore the 200-Year-Old Jewish Cemetery Destroyed Under Soviet Rule

The Project to Restore the 200-Year-Old Jewish Cemetery Destroyed Under Soviet Rule

Under Soviet rule, tens of thousands of Jewish gravestones were ripped from the graves they marked at the historic "Old" and "New" Jewish cemeteriesContinue Reading →

Latvia’s Hidden Viking Heritage: the Lost City of Seeburg

Latvia’s Hidden Viking Heritage: the Lost City of Seeburg

If you visit Grobiņa nowadays, you will see almost no signs of the past settlement.Continue Reading →

Split By a Border and Fading Fast: Estonia’s Unique Seto People

Split By a Border and Fading Fast: Estonia’s Unique Seto People

For Estonia’s Setos, it wasn’t the Soviet Union’s Iron Curtain that split their community in two – but the border Estonia built to keep the Russians out.Continue Reading →

Final Point of the Russian Empire: Liepāja’s Half a Million Emigrants

Final Point of the Russian Empire: Liepāja’s Half a Million Emigrants

In the eight years of emigration from Liepāja to New York, over 500,000 people used the Russian-American line to reach the ‘Big Apple’.Continue Reading →